Friday afternoon saw the Gringo arrive, we packed & left, picking up the Banzai Ninja en-route.
Despite torrential rain we arrived in the heart of wreckers land, and caught up with a few friends who were staying at the same farm. Saturday and we surfaced late, and with the addition of a new crew member Lloyd- always waiting forLloyd = yawn!
We headed to Gypsies, and after the walk were surprised to find no one else down there. Lloyd's insistence that some web cam, in I don't know where was showing only 2ft was soon blown away, as we battled clean 10ft close out sets.
The paddle out was stiff, but apparently I made it look easy?! - the boyz arrivedand Hajime was seen taking off on some bombs. The inside waves were 6ft plus and weren't that catchable (as you were too inside), instead you had to hang out back and catch the smaller 8ft ones. We all took some freight trains,racing fast sections seriously under-gunned - but great fun.
I managed to snag a big one in front of the Ninja Warrior, doing a full banzai warrior impression as I threw myself down an 8ft face. I made the bottom turn, raced the section (which was coming down around my ears) before getting a long wall popping out at the end, 30 metres down the line.
Paddled back to the peak and, caught a big closeout one, turning and kicking outat the last minute as I saw it was about to unload. In mid-air as I came down I got cramp in my right calf, before hitting the water. I surfaced to see Lloyd paddling like a demon beside me, with a 10ft closeout set about to land on bothour heads. Unable to duck-dive with my cramped leg, I surfaced to see another one hitting me in the face. I managed to get under that one too just, but decided that it was time to get out (as I was getting swept South into the rocks!).
Caught up with Cave and headed back to the car, the boyz arrived back a bit later, all with their own war stories.
After a drive we headed to the pub in the quay for Lunch and chilled in thesun, watching the locals getting waves, and taking pics of huge ones in the distance....
There were some bombs coming through – but too close for the rocks for comfort!
Then in the afternoon we headed to Lobos, again Lloyd was convinced it would be 2ft - the swell won't wrap in blah, blah, blah - I always ignore him at this stage! Yet again it was 10ft on the sets, and the paddle out was deadly due to all the rocks. Almost didn't make it myself but we all did eventually.
Paddled for a few, but you either had to be way outback waiting for the 10ft plus bombs, or in the middle - going for the small well overhead ones, I chose the latter. I paddled at a few where the barrels were going square, caught a small one, but ate it.
Then I went for a setty one (a big 8ft plus one), was halfway down theface going left on my yellow Fluid Juice 6'8" and it was still well overhead. I stuck the vertical drop and then raced through two sections beforeit unloaded in front of me. I pulled straight and knew the rocks were near -getting out was gnarly, and probably not very dignified - glad I was all gath'dup - and I made it out ding-less!
I watched as Cave get an 8ft wave, and saw Lloyds beast which even he was surprisedhe made. It was fun watching the boyz all catch waves, and Cave much to my chagrin avoid the 8ft shore dump onto the rocks - but it was a close call!
Saturday night we caught up with friends, let’s just say it was messy! ;0)
We headed back to Gypsies on Sunday and it was just us, and shoulder high on thesets and clean. A mammoth two hour session, with everyone getting fun and good clean waves (a lot easier than Saturday's offerings) and we all got outexhausted. The 3km walk back to the car, seemed even longer than usual.
Back to the Farm and then off , via every fast food establishment we could finden-route and all the fun that goes with that.....
Cave's road rage - he screams american obscenities at any car we pass-apparently it's normal in his "hood, bro".
The Ninja's addiction to classy Sunday red top's and the article about the dwarf paparazzi !?! ;0)
Hope you all had fun wherever you went....
12.11.11 Gypsies, Lobos & Pirates.....